Kyoto is one of my favourite solo destinations in the world. Along with its mix of the traditional and the modern, it also has a vibrant and intimate nightlife which any girl can feel comfortable exploring by herself.

I chose to stay in a small hotel in Central Kyoto. From here most common attractions are within comfortable walking distance or are just a short subway ride away. The moment I arrived, I fell in love with the city. People rode their bikes around the tiny winding alleys, contributing to an environment that exuded a calm and serenity not found in larger cities like Tokyo or Osaka. Surrounding buildings were small in scale, charming, and bursting with a quiet Japanese aesthetic. It was my kind of place, and I couldn’t wait to start wandering around.

Note #1: There are a various types of accommodation in Japan, commonly Japanese-style, such as ryokans, or Western-style, such as your typical hotel. There are no backpacker hostels here. For an authentic experience a ryokan is great but you may have to conform to early curfews, not ideal if you want to experience Kyoto’s nightlife. Staying in a hotel is the safest bet as there are no curfews, plus if you don’t speak any Japanese, the concierge is available to help answer any questions. There are also the unique capsule hotels, but they cater mostly to men.  It could be different now, but when I was there I couldn’t find any that were open to women.

One of the things I truly enjoyed about Kyoto was its ability to delight visitors in the most unassuming locations. I found myself walking towards a certain destination only to find myself stopping in a shop, restaurant or art gallery on some corner and going off-course because something interesting had caught my attention.

During the course of my few days here, I visited the typical tourist attractions such as the Nijo Castle, the Kyoto Imperial Palace, the Nishiki Market, and the famous Kiyomizu-dera Temple.  I even explored Gion, the renowned geisha district of Kyoto, and spotted a few geishas going about their daily lives there. As a solo female traveller it was unfortunate not to be able to visit the ochayas (teahouses) where the geishas work. Some are so exclusive that even men have to be invited by someone they know.

Note #2:  When I travel, trying the local food and beer is something I look forward to in every city. While I love Japanese food, it got slightly monotonous after a few days. There isn’t much culinary variety in Japan. Even their fast food (burgers and the like) has a Japanese twist to it.

When night fell, the last thing I wanted to do was to spend the night by myself in a hotel room. I had to psych myself out to go out alone. As a solo female, this is not an easy thing to do the first few times, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. From my Lonely Planet guidebook, I made a mental list of recommended places where the possibility of meeting other travellers would be greater than normal. With that in mind, I headed out to sample Kyoto’s nightlife.

The first thing I noticed about the restaurants and bars in Kyoto was their size. They were all tiny, mere hole-in-the-wall type establishments, which could probably fit only a dozen or so patrons. This is great for solo travellers, as sitting down at any of these places was not unlike joining a small group of friends for dinner and drinks. The ambience and setting was so conducive that everyone is open to conversation. Soon, after a few cups of sake, it is like you are in the company of old mates. In this manner I found myself in several such set-ups.

Note #3: Bartenders in Kyoto are the most genuine, friendliest and nicest bunch of people I’ve ever encountered throughout my world travels. They are full of fun, will make you any drink you desire, and will make sure you are having a good time. Sometimes they even give out great local tips and recommendations on off-the-beaten-path places to visit. 

By the end of the night I had made more than a few friends and plenty of awesome memories. Kyoto was a place for both contemplation and fun. It was my first visit there but it will not be my last.

I have fond memories of Japan, the first country I ever visited by myself. It formed the foundation for my future solo travels, with its exotic surroundings, delicious food, and friendly people.

I had been to Tokyo before, but not Osaka. When I arrived late in the evening at the Shin-Ōsaka Station via the Japan Railways (JR) network, I felt like I had landed into a scene from Blade Runner. Osaka was like a compact high-tech metropolis filled with bright neon lights and armies of interestingly-dressed people, with everything and everyone seemingly concentrated in a small part of the city.

It was tricky to navigate my way around, especially when all signs are in Japanese and the public address system is designed to confuse non-locals. Even though I had a map, I still had to ask for directions. Fortunately the Japanese are extremely helpful despite generally not speaking English, and after a little difficulty, I found my way to the hotel I had booked myself into, in the fun district of Dōtombori, which was teeming with nightlife.

Note #1: The best way to travel around Japan is to get yourself a Japan Railpass.  Strangely enough, you can only buy it in your own country before you arrive in Japan, presumably because you pay a different price than locals. It’s not cheap, but it will be worthwhile if you plan to go to a few major cities within the time period of unlimited travel. In my opinion it’s worth it just to experience Japan’s super-fast trains.

My first night in Osaka I explored Dōtombori-gawa and Dōtombori Arcade, a glittering strip of restaurants, bars, and shops filled with every imaginable object one could desire. It’s cool just to walk around and take in the flashy surroundings.  I picked a random restaurant and sat down to have a nice Japanese meal.  Everything on the menu was in Japanese so I took a chance and chose something from the photos, which turned out to be fantastic. With so many people around me in such cosy surroundings, I did not feel awkward dining alone.

The next day my main objective was to visit the Church of the Light by Tadao Ando.  I had studied it in university and was excited to see it in real life.  It was located in Ibaraki, a fair distance away from Dōtombori, accessible by train and then taxi. The train was easy enough to use, but I knew I would have trouble trying to explain my destination to the taxi driver, as it was located in the middle of a residential suburb.  Feeling clever, I asked the hotel concierge to write down instructions for my driver, as I needed him to wait for me at the church while I took photos.

The driver complied, and when I got there he waited for me patiently. Interestingly, I was not the only architectural visitor there. There was another traveller who had made the same journey for the same purpose, and he had met a kind Japanese man on the bus who spoke English and taken him there. What luck!  They invited me to join them and I bade goodbye to my taxi driver. The Japanese man, who was an artist, not only took us back to the train station, but took us out for coffee and gave us free tickets to see his art exhibition at the Umeda Sky Building.

At this point I felt encouraged to just get out and meet people on the road. Later that night, I decided to explore the area’s many bars, and found a friendly one called Cinquecento, a 500-yen martini bar.  It was my first time going into a bar alone.  I sat myself down and soon enough, found many new friends in travellers and locals alike.

Note #2: Expect random encounters!  Try not to plan too much as things always change when you travel.  When you travel alone, you will feel a newfound courage to talk to people and people will feel compelled to talk to you.

As a first solo destination, Osaka has all the qualities to make a fantastic trip as it is both safe and fun. It’s one place I would definitely return to.

I was excited to be going to Mexico City for a few reasons.

• Firstly, the weather. After a few weeks in Bolivia and Argentina, I was sick and tired of walking around in heavy jackets and thick clothing. I was ready for some sun and warmth.
• Secondly, the prices. Everything was cheap — from hotels, food, to shopping. With the soaring Australian dollar, I was in the mood to pamper myself and stretch my money here.
• Thirdly, the city itself. When I mentioned to friends and family that I was going to Mexico alone, they gasped with horror and said it was too dangerous to go by myself. That, plus recent media coverage on kidnappings and such, I must admit, they did instill some paranoia in me. However, as usual, my adventurous side got the better of me and I decided to go anyway, but promised myself to do thorough homework on safety precautions beforehand, and be more careful than usual.

Upon arrival at the airport, I took the advice of some travellers I had met in Bolivia and went straight to the taxi companies’ stalls immediately outside immigration. Although every company is pretty similar in price, I’d been advised by Hotel Catedral staff (where I was booked into) to go for the Excelencia taxis. I took their advice, and arrived at the hotel with no trouble at all.

Note #1: All taxi fares are pre-paid at the airport, so there is no need to worry about being ripped off or having to haggle with the driver in a language you don’t speak. The trip from the airport to the city should take approximately 20-30 minutes without traffic, so be suspicious if it takes longer than that.

Hotel Catedral was an excellent choice of accommodation. For around US$60 a night, I had an entire suite with a jacuzzi to myself! The staff spoke English and were very polite and helpful. The morning breakfast buffet was also above expectations. After a long journey, it was exactly what I needed to rest and recuperate for the next day.

My time in Mexico City was to be short and sweet. Following a satisfying local breakfast, my main agenda was to visit the Frida Kahlo and Diego Riviera Museum, located in Coyoacán, around 20 minutes’ drive from the heart of the city. I hopped into a private taxi booked by my hotel, and went on my way.

Note #2: I didn’t try to save money on accommodation here. I booked a reputable hotel located in a central part of town. This meant that I would minimize any need to take lengthy subway or taxi rides, and reduce any probabilities of getting mugged or meeting a corrupt driver. When I did have to take a taxi, I got the hotel concierge to book one for me, as they have their own fleet of verified private drivers.

The museum, which was also the artists’ place of residence, was as captivating as I had imagined it to be. Years ago I had seen a Frida Kahlo exhibit at the Tate in London, and was mesmerized by her paintings and her life with Diego. The house/museum documents their journey in art and life, with the objects they both loved beautifully and meticulously displayed. It was worthwhile to see just for the colourful building, in itself a wonderful example of Mexican architecture. We were not allowed to take photos inside the museum, but I took pictures externally to my heart’s content.

I was due to fly out of Mexico later that evening, so didn’t have time to explore the outskirts of the city. Instead I chose to go back into the heart of town and wander around at leisure to soak in the atmosphere of Easter Sunday.

Surprisingly, everything was open. The hustle and bustle from shops, restaurants and street markets contributed to the vibrant atmosphere lingering in the city. I felt lucky to be able to experience what seemed like a typical weekend here. I strolled around, popping my head into churches, exhibits, and marvelled at the activity, then spent the rest of the afternoon admiring some of Diego Riviera’s extraordinary murals at the Palacio Nacional. Soon, it was time to leave.

Note #3:  Girls may find great comfort in knowing that are armed police stationed on every street corner in Mexico City. Interestingly, this provided me with a sense of safety, though I have not been told if police are corrupt around here. They seemed to just mind their own business.

Overall I had a fantastic time here and would recommend Mexico City to solo female travellers.

A short two-hour flight from Salta took me to Buenos Aires. If you’ve been to Europe and you liked it, you will fall in love with Buenos Aires, my favourite South American city so far. It was an abrupt change from Salta, which was quiet and small compared to the big bright lights here. As a true city girl, I was extremely excited to see skyscrapers all around me.

Note #1: Other than the change in environment, you will also notice a big change in the cost of everything here compared to Salta. Taking a taxi from the airport to the heart of the city will cost you close to US$20.

After a good night’s sleep and hearty breakfast at Hotel Bristol (I know, a fancy hotel for once!), I was ready to roam around the following day.  The hotel was well-located, in Cerrito, one of the main avenues in the city, and it was easy to walk (or take a short taxi ride if you are feeling lazy) to many main attractions.

As both a book and architecture nerd, I had been told about one of the best bookshops in the world, El Ateneo. Apparently the building which houses the books was a spectacle in itself. I decided to take a long stroll there, checking out all the little shops along the way before arriving. Stepping in, I felt like I was in a glamorous opera house instead of a bookshop. The shelves of books seemed just like a backdrop to the magnificent center stage and elaborate interior. Like the other tourists there, I spent all my time taking photos instead of actually buying any books! One can easily spend the entire day there, browsing, and having a coffee/cake break amidst the beautiful surroundings.

While I was in the city area, the next area to visit was the barrio of Recoleta, where there are several worthwhile monuments to see. As a lover of buildings and large sculptures, I made my way to the Parque de la Flor and the Biblioteca Nacional. At the foot of the hill also lies the Eva Perón Memorial, which I found to be small and unassuming for such an important Argentinian icon. When you tire of taking photos, have a rest in the vast parklands around, or explore the nearby markets.

Note #2:  I wish I had planned more time in Buenos Aires. There are monuments and arty sculptures everywhere. If like me, this is your thing, set aside one entire day to admire all of them, as there seems to be one on every corner. Due to the limited time I had, I skipped some and rushed through others. If I could go again, I would spend at least one week here instead of just three days, as there were so many other interesting things to do.

On my second day I went to explore the docks at Puerto Madero, where the Puenta de la Mujer is located, designed by one of my favourite architects Santiago Calatrava. It is a fairly new urban area, with modern buildings and upmarket restaurants along the riverbank. There isn’t that much to see here, so for the rest of the afternoon I ventured to the very awesome La Boca neighbourhood.

Filled with colourful buildings and streetlife, La Boca is my favourite part of Buenos Aires by far. Amongst the many vibrant shops and tango shows on the Caminito, I stumbled upon a brilliant hole in the wall restaurant where choripán can be bought. It is basically a grilled chorizo sandwich, and for between 7-12 pesos (a few dollars), I believe I had one of my best lunches in South America!

Note #3: For those of you sports-inclined, La Boca is also home to the Boca Juniors, one of the most famous football clubs in the world. I walked past the stadium, but as I wasn’t very interested in football, I spent more time walking around the street stalls and shops.

After treating myself to two nights in a nice hotel, I decided to spend my final night in cheaper accommodation. I chose to stay at Baucis Boutique located in Palermo Hollywood, considered one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires. Although they advertise themselves as a hotel, I found it more like staying in someone’s glamorous house, as it was chic and cozy. It is also a hop-skip-and-jump to Palermo Soho, where you will find one-of-a-kind shops and funky bars/restaurants. Needless to say, I went on a shopping spree!

Note #4: This is another shopping note! Leather is good quality and cheap in Argentina, so save your shopping dollars for plenty of gorgeous bags in all shapes and styles in Palermo Hollywood.

Satisfied with my day, I went back to the comfort of my room and got ready to leave early the next morning for Mexico.

It was time to cross the border from Bolivia to Argentina. In order to do that, I had to take a train from Uyuni to Villazón, a southern Bolivian town that sits directly across the river that divides the two countries. Crossing through immigration at the border from Villazón to La Quiaca took a long time.

Note #1:  Be prepared to queue up and have bucketloads of patience at immigration. Bolivians have to fill out a lengthy form to go through while other passport-holders from countries such as UK and Australia don’t need any forms or a visa to enter the country. However, there are no separate queues so you will just have to wait in the one line while Bolivians before you stand there and fill in their forms. Tip: At the time of writing, the reciprocity fee was waived if you enter Argentina via Villazón (payable if you enter via a major city such as Buenos Aires).

Once I stepped across the border, it was like a breath of fresh air, even though the look and feel of La Quiaca was still pretty similar to that of Bolivia.  Perhaps it was a psychological response, or perhaps I was beginning to feel a little better after being sick for the last few days. Suddenly the weather was warmer, and the days seemed sunnier on this side of the border.

The route from La Quiaca to Salta was pretty lengthy, but the landscapes were breathtaking.  From the window of the bus I gawked at the most amazingly coloured mountains and scenery, stopping occassionally to take photos at Tilcara, Pumamarca and Humahuaca Gorge. With all the various stops, it took around 10 hours to get to Salta. At an elevation of just 1200m, there was not going to be any altitude issues here.

Note #2: Other than hotels, I discovered that much of South America operates on a cash-only basis, even in the big cities. Fortunately there are plenty of ATMs here in Salta, and I usually take out enough cash to last me a few days in order to avoid excessive bank fees.

Salta is a quaint and pretty town. I checked into Hotel Posada del Marques, with a cute room to myself. Internet in Bolivia had been hard to come by, and this place had free internet in the lobby. The hotel was also located five minutes’ walk from Plaza 9 de Julio, the city’s main square.

I spent a day walking around, checking out the beautiful colonial architecture, and strolling amongst the many interesting shops. After Bolivia, Salta is definitely a great place to chill out and recuperate, as the city seems to operate at a slow pace and with a relaxed atmosphere.

Note #3: Shopping is fantastic in Salta, with many local crafts and souvenirs available at a reasonable price. Don’t wait till you get to Buenos Aires, as things there are more expensive, and not as unique.

At night, a fun activity is to go to what the locals call a peña. It is basically a dinner and a show, and I was directed to one called La Panaderia del Chuña. At this particular peña, a spectacular and occasionally bizarre display was put on, which consisted of various people performing traditional dances (such as samba and chacarera), an all-woman troupe singing folk songs, and men dressed up as gauchos. At the end it all got slightly confusing as gullible tourists went up on stage to take photos with performers dressed up in strange tribal outfits. At this point, I left, feeling quite amused.

Overall, I really liked Salta. The only irk I had (and this goes for all the South American places I had visited so far) was that restaurant service is terrible. Expect to wait more than 15 minutes for everything, from getting your order taken, being served, and the bill. All in all, try to put aside at least one hour to have any meal. It goes along with the general slowness of Salta I suppose!

After two days in Potosí, I was really looking forward to Uyuni, the final destination on my tour through Bolivia. One of the things that lured me to Bolivia in the first place was the salt flats, also known as the Salar de Uyuni, and the amazing (and creative) photos I wanted to take.

Note #1: As a solo female traveller to Uyuni, I had to join another group tour, as it is difficult to access any other way. There are plenty of travel agencies that offer this, and it will save you time, money, and hassle, especially if like me, you cannot speak a word of Spanish. Most agencies offer the same deals and prices, so just pick one that you feel comfortable with.

After yet another bumpy bus ride, I was bummed to discover that the temperature in Uyuni was almost the same as in Potosi. Cold. I also found out that the Tonito Hotel, the place we were booked into had poor/no heating and low-standard hot-water systems. I knew I shouldn’t expect too much for a town in the middle of nowhere, but I had started to feel ill the day before, and I needed to stay in good-enough shape for the salt flats the next day.

Note #2: For some reason, I had the impression that South America was always warm. Don’t fall victim to this myth like I did (I didn’t do enough research). Due to altitude, wind, and rain, Uyuni is cold no matter the season. I went at the end of spring/beginning of autumn and I froze. Bring very warm clothing with you.

The jeep to take the group to the flats arrived first thing in the morning. Throughout the 30-minute journey from the hotel to the flats, it soon became obvious that Uyuni is dirty and desolate. Other than a small market, a handful of shops, and probably the only pub in town (the quirky Extreme Llama Fun Pub), the only real daytime attraction is the salt flats.

The shanty huts began to disappear as we got closer to the flats. Suddenly the landscape morphed into something out of a fairytale. A sea of blue and white surrounded the jeep as we headed further out. Soon we arrived at a quiet spot and we all got down to start our photo-taking extravaganza. Make sure to bring a fuly-charged camera as you will spend at least two hours taking hundreds of photos.

Note #3: Bring sandals or waterproof shoes on the trip. The salt flats are not always dry, so expect to step onto at least 10cm of shallow water. You may also want to bring a change of clothes as your pants will probably get soaked with salt water, though you will be able to change into dry and comfortable clothing at the Hotel Luna Salada (Salt Moon Hotel) nearby, where you can stop for a bite to eat.

Later that evening, there was no place else to hang out but the Extreme Llama Fun Pub. Entertain yourself here with other travellers’ photos of their salt-flat adventures, and unusually shaped drinkware.

My Bolivian journey ended here. Next on the agenda – Argentina.

After spending 2 days in Sucre, it is on to Potosi, the infamous silver mining town of Bolivia. This time, the overland journey was a bearable 2 hours. From warm and sunny Sucre, the change in weather and environment in Potosi was vast, probably due to its elevation at over 4000m.  The air cold and thin, the town not much more than a cluster of low-rise buildings beneath the shadow of the mountains.  Dust lingered everywhere.

Note #1: As a solo female traveller  to Potosi, I recommend joining a group tour, which you can book from Sucre or La Paz. There are not many choices of accommodation there, and a travel company will be able to organize a decent hotel for you.

One of the top tourist attractions in Potosi is of course visiting the silver mines. Being claustrophobic, I hesitated. However, after watching The Devil’s Miner in Sucre the night before, my curiosity got the better of me and I signed up for the tour. A small van shows up at the hotel and whisks a few of us away to the mines. We were instructed to put on protective gear and to buy supplies as a ‘gift’ to the miners before entering. These ‘gifts’ can be anything from dynamite (yes, they sell these to tourists!) to potent alcoholic beverages ( 96% alcohol, I am not kidding).

The entrance to the mines was dark and foreboding. My heart told me not to go in but I followed the leader since I already paid for the tour. At first the air was quite cool and fresh, so I thought I would be fine. But as we went deeper, the air turned heavy and humid, so after about 15 minutes, my claustrophobia got the better of me. I bailed out and waited for the others outside. I surveyed the view and felt incredibly fortunate not to be part of the slums around me. It was an eye-opening but unpleasant experience.

Note #2: If you haven’t felt the altitude so far, you may feel it in Potosi, the highest in the world. I made the mistake of being overconfident with little altitude sickness in the previous cities, and didn’t take any medication until it was too late.  I felt quite ill here. I also wished someone had told me how cold it was going to be. Whichever hotel you choose, make sure you ask them whether the showers are hot. The place I stayed in only had a trickle of hot water which only lasted a miserable 2 minutes.

Another interesting place to visit in Potosi is the Tarapaya Lagoon. At this surreal spot lies a dormant volcano crater, now filled to the brim with natural hot spring water. It was cold, but once you immerse your body into the warm water, you will forget all about the low temperature and the altitude.  I swam with the group for an hour or so, but if I could choose again I would spend the entire afternoon there just chilling by the crater with their resident ducks.

Later that day, the news broke that the government protests which started in La Paz would be spreading to Potosi. The protestors were planning to form blockades around all major roads in and out of big cities. I got pretty worried. Other than being sick, I was getting really fed up of the cold and boredom. (Girls, think twice about shopping here as it is almost non-existent).

Note #3: Apparently protests against the government are fairly common in Bolivia. If you are there and find yourself in the middle of one, you may find it hard to get in and out of any main cities. Try to hire a private taxi if you get stuck as they may know other secondary roads out of the city. Sure, you will pay more, but trust me, you really don’t want to spend an unknown number of days in a place like Potosi. It gets slightly depressing after 2 days.

Luckily the road to Uyuni, the next destination, was open, as it wasn’t considered a major city. I felt relieved. Escape at last! Salt flats, here I come!

• The bus was only scheduled to stop once on that 12-hour ride, and the buses were not the kind of long-haul buses with toilets on them. I was advised to stop drinking water a few hours before it departed and not to have any during the trip, as the bus drivers normally turn a deaf ear to anyone’s requests to stop.
• When it did stop that one time, it was at a dodgy roadside ‘restaurant’ with the toilets slightly more tolerable than a hole in the ground. Tip: bring hand sanitiser everywhere with you, and I wouldn’t buy any food from there.
• On top of the above, I thought it was pretty unsafe for the driver to keep driving for 6 hours straight without resting.

Note #1: Cheap as it was, Bolivian public transport was very insecure and uncomfortable, and I won’t recommend it to anyone.  Next time I would rather pay slightly more for a private car to share with other travellers, if opportunity arises.

However, once I got to Sucre, I forgot about the bus ride from hell. It was morning on arrival, and breakfast was on my mind. If you are a solo female traveller, you may find yourself enjoying the following, as I did.

1. Have a local breakfast

The Bolivian tour guide I had met in La Paz recommended a place to eat a local breakfast – salteñas, which is similar to a juicy curry puff, filled with chicken or beef. These are widely available around Sucre, but you need to get there early as they sell out by 10am.

2. Eat and sleep in a charming hotel

Not far from the hostel I stayed in, I stumbled onto the excellent La Postada, a quaint hotel with a lovely restaurant on the ground floor.  Here for around USD$10 or less, you can have a delicious three-course meal, plus enjoy it in their cheerful courtyard and soak up the sunshine. If I had known about this earlier I would definitely have chosen to stay here instead.

3. Wander around the quaint cobbled streets

As a Unesco listed heritage site, Sucre has many beautiful streets and lanes to wander around and get lost in.  As Sucre is at a lower elevation than La Paz, the altitude of 2750m should not bother you. Be prepared to walk up many steep paths, but at the top of many streets you will be rewarded with wonderful vantage points from which to view the city or stop toadmire the many local crafts sold at the street markets.  Known as the ‘white city of Bolivia’, Sucre is also home to stunning colonial architecture.

Note #2: If you plan to shop, Sucre would be the only other city other than La Paz to have a large variety of Bolivian products to choose from. For the solo female traveller, the silver jewellery will be exquisite and cheap. The other main cities such as Potosi and Uyuni will not compare in terms of price or selection.

4. Go adventuring in the countryside

Right in the city center resides the Joy Ride travel centre and café/bar. Here you will find at least an activity or two to suit the solo female traveller, depending on how adventurous you are. When I visited the centre, I was greeted by a friendly customer service representative who recommended either paragliding or horse-riding. After that torturous bus ride, I chose the more peaceful activity. The four-hour horseride, led by a Bolivian ‘cowboy’ clip-clopped amongst the most breathtaking landscapes I have ever seen. Other than a sore bum and stray pigs everywhere amongst the slums (unfortunately the route took us through them in the first half-hour), this turned out to be one of my most memorable experiences in Bolivia. After the ride, enjoy a comfy drink back at the travel centre, which also doubles up as a cafe/bar with a private cinema upstairs.

Overall, I really liked Sucre with its good mix of warm weather, good food, character, and things to see, do, and buy.  Next stop, Potosi, the mining town.

Read more about solo travel in South America.

The next destination on my South American journey was La Paz, Bolivia. I did some research on La Paz before I got there, since it was situated in one of the highest altitudes in the world and many travellers have been known to suffer from altitude sickness. Therefore, my plan was to check straight into a hotel and stay there for 2 days to acclimatize in case I got sick. I also took precautionary medication (Diamox was prescribed to me in Australia before I left) 24 hours before I arrived there just in case.

From the airport to the hotel in the city, I was immediately blown away by the surreal geography of the La Paz. Because the entire city was built in a deep canyon, it suffers from two extremes. On one hand the views are captivating all around but because it is essentially a hole in the ground, it is extremely polluted as the dust is trapped in. Smog is everywhere and it’s hard to avoid breathing it in.

Some words of advice for other solo female travellers:

1. Be prepared for the altitude.

Altitude sickness can affect anyone no matter your gender, size, or fitness level. It’s always better to be prepared. The symptoms range from mild headaches, nosebleeds, to nausea. I’m quite petite (5’4”), weigh about 48kgs, with an average level of fitness. After taking the Diamox (side effects include tingly fingers), the only thing I noticed was my heart beating very fast, and a slight shortness of breath. Other than that, I was able to function normally.

Note #1: There is a local tea called mate de coca, a refreshing brew made from the local coca leaves. It helps to give you an adrenalin boost to help with the effects of the altitude, and has a great nutty flavour.

2. Hire a private taxi.

Right at the entrance of the airport you will find a taxi rank with a fleet of cars waiting for your business.  Unlike what I had expected (shameless touting), I was pleasantly surprised to meet a polite Bolivian driver who drove me to my hotel and offered me a business card with his license and contact details.  His taxi was available for private hire at 50 bolivianos (around USD$7) an hour. I agreed. It was the best decision I made as Jose was not only well-versed in English but also extremely knowledgeable.

In many places you need to pay a lot extra for an English guide, but for a fraction of the price, I paid for Jose to join me in some local sites (Bolivians pay only a small percentage of what tourists pay in entrance fees), and he became not only my driver, but my personal tour guide, enthusiastic photographer (for once I was going to appear in more of my own photos!), and also a trusty food companion (he introduced me to local food like chicarrón and fricassee. Yum!)

Note #2: If you decide to hail a taxi from the streets, choose only “radio taxis” with a number on the side of their cabs as those are the ‘official’ ones.

3. Drink bottled water.

Tap water is not recommended for drinking. For around 70 cents a 2-litre bottle, there’s no excuse not to drink from bottled water, available in every corner.

4. Beware of ‘fake’ police.

A local tour guide warned me that there are people who dress up in a police uniform and approach tourists to ‘check’ their passports. While that is happening an accomplice uses the distraction to steal money and other valuables. Personally I didn’t encounter any, but I thought I would relate this story anyway in case anybody did.

5. Take toilet paper with you.

Girls, Bolivian public toilets are not that pretty. Not only are most places missing toilet seats, toilet paper is usually not provided. So practice your hovering skills and stuff a pack of tissues in your bag.

6. Don’t forget your credit card

Most of South America works on a cash only basis, so locating ATMs are important. Machines are plentiful but not all of them may work with your card. For my Bolivian travels I used a Visa Debit card which worked in every machine, but I also met others at the hotel I stayed in that reported their cards being eaten, or Travelex cards that didn’t work.  A word of caution as well – unlike most western countries, the machine only spits the card out AFTER you take the money, not the other way around. This means there is a large possibility you will take the cash and forget your card (I did this once but remembered a few seconds later so luckily my card was still there).

Note # 3: I learnt my lesson after that incident but in hindsight I should probably have taken a backup card with me.

Other interesting things about La Paz include the awesome Witches Market, scary traffic and zebras. But I don’t want to take all the mystery out, so go and check it out yourselves!

When I first decided to venture to South America, I was nervous about travelling alone despite being to so many other countries solo. This is due to an abundance of stories and information online on how unsafe South America is, and plenty of precautionary advice on how to avoid being targeted by thieves and unsavoury characters. As I had never been there before, I was quite put off by what I had found, and spent more time stressing on little things like where to hide money when going out. Someone even told me to stash money in my shoes!

Once I arrived there however, suddenly the city seemed like any other, and I felt that it was no more dangerous than any other city I had been to alone. As a solo female traveller visiting South America for the first time, Santiago, Chile is a very good place to start. I found it to be accessible and modern, and did not feel threatened during my stay there. Taxis are cheap and plentiful, drivers courteous and professional, and I never felt unsafe. If you are taking one from the airport, take TransVIP, a shared taxi service which only cost around US$12 to take you downtown.

Note #1:  Similar safety and security measures should be applied regardless of where you go, whether it’s South America or anywhere else.  However, try not to over-worry at the expense of not enjoying your trip. Trusting your instincts and plain common sense usually does the trick.

Although I was couchsurfing with Seb, he had a full-time job so most of the time I went out to the city by myself. Walking through downtown Santiago as a solo female, I discovered the following:

1. Despite the extremely hot weather, people here dress conservatively in long pants and long-sleeved tops, including women. If you’re a solo female getting ready to spend the day walking around in shorts, a tank top, and slippers, be prepared to be the only person wearing that. If you don’t want to stand out too much, dress like the locals, but sweat in your pants, literally.
2. Take the metro as it is fast, efficient, and cheap.  Signs and directions are clearly marked, with maps in every station to help you navigate your way.
3. Other than people who work in the tourist areas, most locals don’t speak any other language other than Spanish. If you are alone and lost and don’t speak any Spanish, your best option is to know the name of a landmark, (for example Plaza de Armas) and try to get there somehow to find a local tourist information centre where you will find someone to help you.
4. I did not have to use the money belt after all as I found it cumbersome, uncomfortable, and too ‘touristy’. In the end I just brought my daypack, which was a great one as it had a zipped compartment at the rear where my valuables were kept against my back at all times. It was secure and worked for me.

Note #2:  If you have more time to plan for your South American trip, learning some Spanish beforehand will be extremely useful. Better yet, bring a phrasebook to help you.

Other places/activities you can enjoy as a solo female traveller:

• Climb the hill of Cerro San Cristóbal. There you can find a good sunny spot on the lawns, and spend the entire day admiring the Andes while reading a good book. Plenty of locals go there during the weekend.
• Join a local tour out of the city. I always join local day tours outside the main city as it’s a good opportunity to interact with other travellers in a small private setting. At a local tourist agency I booked myself a day tour to Portillo and Viña San Esteban. It was quite expensive, at around US$120, but at the end of the day, I was convinced it was worth the money as it included all transfers, the tour guide spoke excellent English and was very knowledgeable, plus the destinations were absolutely stunning.
• If you will be couchsurfing like I did, get taken to local parties!

Other than slightly bland food, my verdict on Santiago, Chile is that it is perfectly fine for a solo female traveller. Happy solo travels!